This
town was formerly the readiest point to which goods could be brought
overland from the States to Mexico; but since the colonization of Texas
it is otherwise. The profits also obtained in this trade are far from
being what they used to be. The journey from St. Louis (Missouri) is
very tedious, the distance being about twelve hundred miles, nor is the
journey ended when you reach Santa Fe, as they have to continue to
Chihuahua. Goods come into the country at a slight duty, compared to
that payable on the coast, five hundred dollars only (whatever may be
the contents), being charged upon each waggon; and it is this privilege
which supports the trade. But the real market commences at Chihuahua;
north of which nothing is met with by the traveller, except the most
abject moral and physical misery.
Of course, our time passed most tediously; the half-breeds were too
stupid to converse with, and the Yankee traders constantly tipsy. Had it
not been that Gabriel was well acquainted with the neighbourhood, we
should positively have died of _ennui_. As it was, however, we made some
excursions among the _rancheros_, or cattle-breeders, and visited
several Indian tribes, with whom we hunted, waiting impatiently for a
westward-bound caravan.
One day, I had a rather serious adventure.
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